Saturday 25 June heading south

 

Wind and forecast looked good so we were off at 7:00 onto Scapa Flow and south to the main land. We decided on the shorter route even though it twisted and turned around the islands as it would miss the main shipping channels to Flotta, the big oil terminal. From the charts we imagined narrow channels but in reality they are miles across so with the tide with us we were soon out into to Pentland Firth sailing west of the Skerrys with Duncansby Head in view. This is the most north eastern point of Scotland. Our back up plan was to duck into Wick but as the wind stayed with us and several hours of favourable tide to go we decided to head SE overnight and head for Arbroath. As with all good plans they have hiccups. Half way across the Moray Firth the wind dropped and with it our speed over the ground to below the 3 kt rule so we had to engine for a few hours. The wind came back for a few hours and we even got the asymmetric spinnaker up for a while. Eventually with early evening it died again and in came the fog so on engine and on radar. We then motored from about 19:00 to 02:00 Sunday morning when again we managed another few hours sailing. Fortunately the fog had gone by then so we didn’t need the radar as using radar with the engine on is ok but with the engine off it soon draws down the battery.
Overnight we kept to our 2 hour on 2 off then switched to 3 on 3 off to allow the off person to get a decent kip. When I came on a 02:00 for the 2 to 4 it was to views of the Peterhead terminal and Rattary Head light. Again a shipping forecast point. Rattary Head marks the end of the Cape Wrath to Rattary Head area and the beginning of the Rattary to Berwick upon Tweed area. Today dawn was with cloudy sky so no impressive sun rise. Eddie then did 4 to 7 but when I came back on at 7 it was to a bright morning with Aberdeen behind us and Stonehaven coming up. The wind was up to its normal tricks so we motored for a few hours but then by 11:30 it came back SE, not as forecast but very welcome, steadily strengthening up to a 4 or 5 and gave us a great 5 hour sail with sunny skies and slight swell straight towards Arbroath. This was all too good swishing through the water at about 5 kts and sure enough it started to veer to the south then SW until eventually it was a full SW 5 to 6 with 27 kt gusts so instead of a nice single beat into Arbroath we ended up doing several tacks and having to put reefs in the sails.
Arbroath eventually came into view and we were able to pick up the transit lines guiding us through a pretty narrow entrance and relative calm. Inside the breakwaters there is a small outer harbour then an inner harbour with lock gates so once in the inner harbour and tied up to the pontoon it was all quite and still again. As if trying to show off Arbroath at its best the rain and wind stopped and the sun came out.
Arbroath used to be a very busy fishing port and during the industrial revolution flax mills producing canvas and sail cloth. It’s architecture shows its history with many substantial buildings around the town and harbour which has an attractive, workmanlike feel. There are also several working fish smoking houses in the harbour producing the famous Arbroath Smokie, a warm smoked haddock. Fishing quotas did for the fishing fleet and Arbroath is now, no longer a white fish landing port. The main fishing now is for crabs and lobsters with some boats putting out 1000 creels ( pots). It’s good business for now but many locals say it’s too much and should be controlled before the crabs and lobster go the same way as the white fish.
We couldn’t go to Arbroath without trying a Smokie. By luck we got to one of the smoke houses just as they were ready and had freshly smoked, warm Smokies, fresh crispy rolls and salad, washed down with cider. What more could you ask for.
Two final point of interest I noted on my walk around, the local stone here is a red sandstone, a bit darker than Sidmouth but giving many of the buildings a similar look to Sidmouth. And finally I came across the Arbroath Football Club ground right beside the sea. Playing in a gale must be interesting and the supporters must be loyal and hardy. When I listen to the football results in future I will think of them.
Eddie decided on an afternoon of painting, although it was a pretty unenthusiastic and tardy start after the Smokie and cider. He was apparently getting on well with a harbour scene only to see the masterpiece whisked from his easel, well morning bollard and flung into the sea by an angry gust of wind. I suggested it was the ultimate in divine criticism but he was not amused. What we couldn’t believe was that hardboard didn’t float. Still if you are after a unique Eddie Burrows scour the harbour.

On a completely different note I have noticed loads of typos and spellings in the blog posts. My apologies, I bad but not that bad, some are mine but I do proof read the word edition and the auto spell check on that turns in some incredible substitutions at times but I try to pick these up. My only other thought is that when WordPress gets the Word copy it does a second check and makes other changes, is that possible?? Anyway I will try to check the final final edition before posting in future.