Across the Minches to Stornaway

 

The forecast was marginally better for Friday, at least no mention of F7 so at 8:00 we slipped out, first into Gairloch proper then into the Minch on the way to Lewis and Stornaway. Even in Gairloch it was blowing 20 kts plus, that’s 5 to 6 but at least the sea was relatively flat. Once out of the loch and around the headland the sea started to build to be what the forecast says slight to moderate. May be slight to moderate for a big freighter but a small yacht its big, and big enough to bounce you off course making steering a handful. I have a simple 2 level scale. Standing in the cockpit you are about 2.5 m off the water. Looking out if you can see a distant horizon with all the waves of whatever size. That’s level 1. Level 2 is when the horizon is the next wave and you are looking up at the crest, when it gets like that it’s rough.
The Minches, north Minch and little Minch are the sea areas between Skye and the Hebrides and renown for rough water because the way the sea bed changes with under water peaks and troughs. Out side of the headland we set a course for Stornaway needing to make around 330 degrees over the ground but with wind and tide the best we could manage was 310 so we set of for a 26 mile beat across the Minches in a force 5 to 6 gusting 7 and a moderate sea. The course over the ground is the direction the boat actually moves in, this is different to the course steered as the wind and tide give you Lee way taking you sideways. Not the most relaxing 6 hours but actually good fun to be sailing hard rather than motoring. We had added excitement as well. Just after I went below a really big wave hit the boat and crashed over Eddie soaking him. It broke the fire extinguisher from its fastening flinging it across the cabin letting off a big spurt of extinguisher powder as it hit the other side. This time I decided it could be cleaned up once the sea calmed down, Eddie however was more house proud than me and when we swapped over and I went on the helm he was down on his knees cleaning. It’s amazing how much powder it puts out in what must have been a half second spurt, it’s still on green though so quite usable still.
We got into Stornaway around 5 pm to the normal friendly welcome from the harbour masters staff and were soon tied on the pontoon with the kettle on.
Stornaway is a working town, quite functional but interesting. We went for a stroll to find a pub but don’t imagine a quaint island hostelry with fiddle players and a blazing fire. These are serious drinking houses, all very friendly though and when I asked if they did food he just pointed at his pint of Tenants saying “that’s food enough”
Saturday was a job day, doing the washing, which Eddie insist on calling his “Dobie” and asks other people in the laundry room if they are doing their Dobie only to receive blank stairs and what is this mad man talking about. The scene is further improved by him standing in his sandals and socks. I blame Katie, you should have stopped him years ago.

We have been fishing since Devon and so far caught nothing so today Eddie bought some new hand line, I went to the fish shop and bought some fish. Eddie then walked around enjoying the delights of Stornaway including a pipe and drum band and girls dancing. I spent another afternoon waiting for a boat electrician to sort out the batteries, he didn’t turn up perhaps he’s related to the one in Waterford who turned up 4 hours late.

We did manage to drop the main and fit the infamous battens. They seem to furl ok but we were having problems with the furling as a whole eventually deciding that minimal tension on the main halliyard is the secret as this stops the top of the foil binding causing the top of the sail to get up and stick.

Dinner was mussels marinara followed by fish stew, we ate like kings even if it was from the fish shop. We had thought of going out after dinner but the attraction of the local bars was enough so off to bed to read, we know how live!

Sunday the wind was building and swinging around to the SW gale forecast. Perfect no reason to go out so it felt perfectly reasonable to catch up with the Archers omnibus. Aren’t Rob and his mother absolute bastards, let’s hope Helen gets it together to mount a good defence.

We did some work and repeated all the battery tests and have now decided to just buy a battery charger and get it sorted properly once back home.

We went out in the afternoon and it was just like Sunday’s of the 60’s nothing was open not co-op, spar, Tesco or a garage, a few families out walking but that was all. Annoying for us because we wanted some cheese but actually I think quite nice. I’m sure once you got used to it Sunday’s would become rest day as opposed to just another day as it has become at home. A couple of bars or cafes open would be good.

We are moored beside the Lifeboat station and around 4pm we saw all the RNLI men running to the boat and it going out. Couldn’t hear anything on the radio and it came back around 9pm so probably a shout rather than an exercise.

Monday Morning, there is full gale forecast for Hebrides and Orkney area so glad to be in here but hopefully out on Wednesday.

Moored in Stornaway, dinner and those sandles and socks