Waterford, Tuesday Wednesday

Oh what a lovely night, tied up on the quay, a couple of pints of Guinness and a gentle rocking from the current on the river, a great change and antidote to the previous few nights in the Scilly tumble drier and the overnight sail.

Waterford is on the tourist route with Waterford Crystal, and the boneless Vikings all being featured in the museums and factory shop. It’s also a local town so had all the services we needed with the harbour showers and laundry in a hut on the quay really convenient, maybe not as swish as the marinas but very serviceable.

One of my main concerns was to get the batteries sorted, even though we charged them either on the engine or shore power they weren’t holding charge meaning we couldn’t keep the chart plotter or the fridge on for more than a few hours. The battery monitor just didn’t seem to make sense and at one time overnight we were down to 10v and I was afraid the mast head light would turn off. After contacting a local marine engineer and a battery supplier I managed to get them tested. They didn’t fail but weren’t in a great state so given our problems and based on the date indicator which started in 2002, but had not been marked, they were possibly 15 years old I decided to replace them getting the biggest Ahr’s that would fit in the box. I won’t say the price as I know the Beer lot will say I could have got them cheaper but I thought it was ok and anything for a hassle free next 3 months.

Otherwise Waterford was a nice rest, being on the quay making it so much easier than having to row in for everything. Eddie got some painting done and chatted up the American tourists taking their photos. Because of the battery issues and waiting around I didn’t get to the Waterford factory but had a good look around and came across a small artisan glass maker with his workshop doors open and it was fascinating to watch him blow and pull the glass.

We returned to our favourite pub on Tuesday night and this time had the mussels which were very good, helped down by several more Guinness’s. That night they had a folk singer in who was good but with the largely America crowd couldn’t really get them singing. We also realised that the impromptu evening the night before was maybe not quite as impromptu as it seemed but it was good and we enjoyed it.

After two night out on the town it was dinner in on Wednesday, we hardened drinkers can’t take too many nights out!

We left Waterford around 10:30 in the calm, motoring down river with the tide on glassy water with just a few birds as company. It seems incredible that such a fine estuary has so few people using it, perhaps we are just too early in the season. So good bye Waterford, well worth the visit and onward to Dublin.

 

On our way to Ireland (Sunday 22 May)

 

We were up at 5 got the latest forecast, no change from last night and were off by 5:30. With wind and waves against us we motored west to clear the western island of  Tresco and at 7:00 had sails up and off to Ireland. The wind was more west when we got out and the heading to Cork was a beat, again. With S Westerlys being the prevailing wind we expected to beat to Cornwall and the Scillys but this should have been a more relaxing reach to Ireland. Not so, the wind strengthened and went more north so we ended up doing a 130 mile beat taking us 50 miles east of Cork by around 8:45 the following morning. The overnight sail had been fairly straight forward but tiring as the wind was constantly over 20kts often 25+ with a big sea on the beam giving a bit of a corkscrew sail touching 7.7 kts at times. We have used the Autohelm but felt the sea and wind were too much for it let alone the power consumption on the batteries so hands on all the way. Given the sea conditions I preferred to helm anyway but 2 hours at a time was enough. We were also conscious of staying as far west as possible to try to make Cork but by half way that was obviously not possible. We started looking at other options not actually wanting to go around the corner up towards Dublin. By this time before tacking we were nearly half way to Wales. Waterford was the obvious choice but the harbour was about 8 miles inland, there were other easier options but didn’t look as interesting as Waterford.

Around 2:00 in the morning we must have been over some fishing grounds as there were several trawlers moving around in various directions. Trawlers have the normal nav lights but also all the working lights which makes them easy to see but difficult to work out what direction they are going. One particular one did a great job of luffing us up, that’s forcing us to sail higher and higher into the wind as we tried to sail behind him. I still can’t work out what course he was on he always seemed to be just down wind and the last thing we wanted to do was to have to tack WSW away from Ireland. Eventually we cleared him to continue north with the tide adding to our eastward track.

Sancler sails very well in a sea and strong wind and feels very safe and solid. We had quite big reefs in both main and foresail. Being roller furling for both sails we monitor the reefs as one dot or two dots or up to the Kemp sign.

At around 8:45 we tacked west back towards Ireland hoping the wind would continue to veer northerly to get us closer in. We were going marginally north but mainly west parallel to the coast but eventually could just see land in the distance, about 12 miles to the north. More exciting than seeing land was seeing dolphins. I had noticed a lot of bird activity ahead mainly gannets and some sort of petrel and then along side the greens grey backs of several dolphins or probably harbour porpoise. There were three or four of them going from side to side and doing small jumps. They stayed for around 5 minutes then were gone but they cheered up the morning after a hard night.

We kept on westwards until around 11:00 betting on the wind going more south as we neared the coast, and for once we were right and managed to sail right into Waterford harbour passing the Hook Head light around 14:00. From here we sailed on until a mile or so until the channel marks when we also lost the wind. All in all a very satisfying sail all the way from The Scillys.

Roger had taught us well on filing passage plans and closing them so it was good to call up the very friendly Rosslare coastguard with their broad Irish brogue and close ours. We also called up Waterford harbour to arrange mooring and again nothing was any problem and nothing they couldn’t arrange. Waterford city is about 8 miles up the river Suir so the trip up was interesting and couldn’t be more different to the sea crossing we had just finished. The river starts as a broad estuary narrowing down to a wide but shallow river with a deep channel within the first 2 miles where there are small coastal towns on each side but no real harbour. The river then winds through a wooded valley opening out to a flatter area. After the rural nature of the first bit the industrial docks and power plant come as a bit of a surprise. One factory made wind turbines and you can really appreciate their size when you see them on the dock ready for transport to the farm site. After the industrial area it goes even more narrow and agricultural as you follow a well buoyed channel eventually reaching the southern suburbs of Waterford and big houses on the waters edge. After that you are soon in the town and the harbour pontoons are along side the Main Street. John, the harbour master allocated us an outside berth and within minutes we were tied up and engine off almost exactly 36 hours after leaving the Scillys.

Waterford is a real historic town, third oldest in Europe after London and Paris. It was initiated by a Viking pirate, Regnall, grandson of Ivor the Boneless, hardly a name to strike fear into his enemy’s ” now look here I’m Ivor the boneless”

We were not  up for a long night but did fancy mussels and Guinness and a typical Irish pub and that’s what we found. Got the Guinness in and ordered up the mussels only to be disappointed five minutes later to be told the last sack of mussels was not good with many filled with silt so they were sending the whole sack back but that meant none for us. Oh well we could choose what ever we wanted from the menu and that more than made up for it. Slow braised ox cheek for me and Eddie a selection of fish. The food and drink were not the end of it, people started to arrive at the table beside us getting their musical instruments out and just started playing traditional tunes. Others arrived and just joined in. It wasn’t a band just groups of friends who gather together and play. All very Irish and stereotypical of an Irish pub but it didn’t feel staged just very natural and people enjoying themselves. Unfortunately we couldn’t stay for long having been up for 40 hours but it was great to hear and see and may be again tomorrow.

Approaching Waterford and Eddie

One last Scilly day

The wind in the rigging and rain beating down on the hatch was enough to confirm we wouldn’t be making an early start for Ireland today ( Saturday 21st). We still got up at 5:10 to listen to the shipping forecast which different to yesterday confirmed SW5 to 7 with moderate to rough sea for Rockall area. The trouble was the wind had gone more SW while the swell was sill more south so with wind holding us beam onto the swell the mooring was like a tumble drier making sleep difficult.

With an extra day we decided to get jobs done and mended the spray cover, started to polish up the cockpit and rehung my cabin door so I didn’t have to slam it, waking Eddie up.

Every time we have used our little dinghy we have defeated it and put it away in expectation of leaving, so out it came again, at least we are getting good at pumping it up only taking about 5 mins now.

On dry land Eddie went of in search of new subjects to paint and I walked the headland I didn’t do the other days. This was the garrison headland and the garrison walls and castle are well preserved. It takes you the whole headland giving perfect 270 degree sight over the approach and access to St Mary’s. The ledges to the south are called Spanish ledge so possibly something to do with the Armada? There are also newer fortifications possibly 2nd world war. I’m ashamed of my ignorance and must read up.

Our final day, hopefully, the mid day forecast for Sunday looks promising so we ended up in the Atlantic Hotel, again, only two pints but very nice lounge, comfy seats looking over the harbour. And that’s it for the Isles of Scilly, definitely worth a visit.

Our little dinghy (one by its self) and final vies over St Mary’s Pool from the garrison

Scilly tourists

We arrived in St Mary’s pool Tuesday afternoon managing to get in before the strong winds started. The plan was for a day or two on/in? The scillys but due to the weather it got extended to three and a half and possibly another if things don’t change. That’s the problem with sailing the best made plans all depend on weather making it difficult to say when or where we will be.

The days have been well spent Wednesday we got the harbour launch ashore and had a few hours looking around. Hugh Town is the capital of St Mary’s which is the biggest island. There are several other islands which can be reached by the various tour boats and something I would look forward to doing on a future visit with Moira and Barney. The beaches with their white sand almost look tropical, especially when the sun comes out.

I only  explored St Mary’s, there is a coast path accessing all the beaches and a complete circuit of the island, stomping not dawdling, takes about 3 hours but could easily be a whole day visiting all the beaches and headlands especially stopping for lunch. Some of the headland rock formations are more like Henry Moore sculptures.

Eddie manage to tuck himself into a sheltered corner and paint, guess what?  boats in the harbour.  They will limited editions from his Round Britain collection so get your orders in!

Mooring off instead of going along side gave us the chance to try out our new inflatable tender. Not the biggest as I was trying to keep it light and small for stowing and lifting in and out. Well it’s small and light and pumps up in a couple of minutes but we won’t be moving any grand pianos. It feels tiny with the both of us in it rowing ashore but it rows well and no different to all the others.

On a boat you talk and swap stories with the other sailors.  Moored along side us is an Irish guy, Rod. He was able to give us good advice on where and where not to go once we get to Ireland. He told us about the Gallway Bay Hookers, the local type of boats not the more exotic variety. He whetted our appetite with tales of fresh seafood and Guinness. All we need to do now is get there.

Today I walked the bit of the island I missed yesterday because of the rain and came across the old town churchyard and Harold Wilsons grave. I remember visiting here in the 60’s and having his holiday bungalow pointed out to me. Apparently his wife still visits. Talking to locals he is fondly remembered as someone who did s lot of good for the I o S.

Well hopefully we get away tomorrow but have enjoyed the IoS and will certainly be back.

Thanks to everyone who has sent comments and kind words if yours haven’t been logged on the blog sorry I’m still getting to grips with it and doing it all on a phone rather than the larger iPad.

First sunrise 20 miles off Plymouth

The prop and rope not a nice pub to visit

On th beach Newlyn

First sunrise 20 miles off Plymouth

the prop and rope  not a nice pub to visit

aground in Newlyn

last of England for 2 months

on mooring in st Mary’s pool I o S

Off to the Isles of Scilly

Tuesday 17th 5:05 weather not so good with 4 to 5 SW building 6 later in day and moderate to rough sea which is big enough to make it uncomfortable. Should we stay or should we go. If we stay then we will probably be in Newlyn till the end of the week but could we get to Scilly before the stronger wind came in.

I often listen to the shipping forecast at home but now the day is timetabled by it and every decision base on it. After considering the options we decided to go but accepted it would be a straight line motor enhanced beat to get us in before the stronger winds came.

Leaving Newlyn we hugged the coast right round to Gwennap head passing Mousehole, the Minack theatre and some beautiful looking beaches. Actual lands end was off to the NW but we headed off SW direct to Scilly. Wind was up to 24kts and sea building but not enough to stop us having cheesy croissant and coffee, Eddie even bought some special latte mix for me, do I really get grumpy without caffeine ?

Pretty uneventful trip across only about 30 miles but out into the Atlantic leaving the mainland behind was a milestone. At one point we must have hit either a jelly fish or big lump of weed as the prop gave a bang and clatter but nothing to be seen and soon built up revs and speed again.

Arriving in the Scillys was great our first really new destination, we motored into St Mary’s Pool to see 50 or so yachts and boats moored off, manoeuvring around them after checking with the harbour master we found a free buoy and moored just as the heavier wind was starting. That was around 13:30 so the 30 of miles had taken around 7 hours. With the wind picking up we didn’t feel like pumping up the dinghy and rowing ashore so spent a lazy afternoon and evening helped by a couple of beers and a nice Rioja. This proved our real organisation and improvisipnal skill. We had forgotten a cork screw but found a wood screw and mole grips a perfect substitute.

Monday 16th Newlyn

If you have never been to Newlyn you should give it a visit. It’s a real working fishing town and a step back into slower non digital world.

The fish docks are 24hr either unloading fish or working on boats. The yotty bit is small and the fishing boats have preference on the pontoons but saying that they are keen to encourage yachts and seem to be able to fit everyone in. Really interesting to walk around and although basic have everything you need.

Anyway the prop. We were up at 4am off the pontoon and motored up onto the beach to dry out. By 7 we were high and dry and could inspect the prop. Fortunately just a ball of rope and once removed the blades all moved properly and felt and sounded smooth. So all being well no problems. That done after a quick check and clean of the speed log and water inlets nothing else to do but wait for the tide to float us off.

Put on my house keeping apron and sorted out the cupboards. First disagreement with Eddie, is marmite a condiment or a snack spread with the beverages?

Rest of the day minor jobs refuelling by hand as fuel truck for the big boys only. Thanks to Rob Sutherland who gave us an automatic syphon tube just dip it in wiggle it about and it syphons without the risk of spillage, fantastic and simple.

Note to me get a selection of hose fittings I got wetter trying to bodge a hose onto the water tap with tape than I did sailing.

After dinner I walked around the old fish dock. Some of the boats look derilict while others  look like they are being prepared for sea. Compared to the new very workman like boxy boats the old ones look like the classic trawlers of the 30’s and Buck more attractive. The guys working on them certainly earn their money. Nine o clock at night, cold and dark and there were men working loading chain to make up the trawls, it looked heavy dirty work and I was glad I wasn’t me.

The forecast for the next few days was not good so we arranged for the sail battens o be posted onto Cork and we made plans to leave for the Isles of Scilly first thing so another 4:30 start.

Sorry no photos using phone internet is so slow will post some when we find a nice pub with wifi

We are on our way

Sarurday 14 May and it’s time to get  ready to go, over a year since we first thought of it we were starting today. Although we had had a hectic last few weeks there were still jobs to do but mainly minor the boat was ready and so were we.

The send off was great with Moira and Lizzy and lots of friends crammed in the cockpit and a glass of champaign to wish us well.

At 12:30 we cast off and motored out of the Axe and turned right for Beer head. Winds were light so we motor sailed for the first hour until we reached the SW sea breeze. We basically followed the coast passing Exmouth, Teignmouth and then south to Start point. Our first dinner at sea, thank you Lizzy for the curry. Finally with light fading we could no longer see Beer Head.

First overnight sail was with light NW winds but at least taking us in the right direction. We were about 20 miles out and started seeing quite a bit of shipping. Our first morning dawned off Plymouth and the Eddystone was on the horizon. With dawn the wind dropped but then picked up giving us a frustrating day of sailing when we could and motorsailing when we had to to maintain progress. The wind took us I towards Coverack but rather than have to tack out against the tide we decided to motorsail around the Lizard. All going well and then a shudder and bang as we went over a rope, most likely on a pot. With the rough water and sun in our eyes we saw nothing but heard plenty. We now had a 10ft tail of spinning rope. In and out of reverse released most of it but we couldn’t be sure what if anything was left or if any real damage had been done.

Once around the Lizard we then had a straight and really good sail across Mounts Bay, past St Michaels Mount towards Penzance and Newlyn.

Entering Newlyn we were met by Dave, the asst harbour master who couldn’t have been more helpful or friendly. Eddie as usual managed to make it simple even without reverse gear. Dave helped us onto a pontoon and then got us permission to dry out on the beach the next day to check the prop.

Anyway our first leg over, some good sailing and a new problem. You will have to read tomorrow’s to hear the fate of the propeller. After an overnight sail all we managed was an early dinner a glass of wine and bed as we had to be up at 4 am to catch the tide and put Sancler on the beach. The joys of sailing

 

Sailing back to Devon

Friday the 29th Eddie, Roger and I drove up to Essex for final preparations and then the sail back.

Saturday morning dawned clear, calm and frosty as we cast off at 6:30 on top of the tide and motored out of Brightlinsea. Once clear of the channel we unfurled the main and motor sailed across the Thames estuary, buoy hopping as we picked up the channels between sand banks. It was calm for the first real trip on the water, frustrating for sailing but good for us to get used to things.  I’m sure it’s not always this easy but with good vis, local knowledge from Bill Kippen, the surveyor, charts and gps to hand we found the gaps. The difference between an old chart and latest gps chart is significant, especially when looking for channel between Middle and West Sunk, yes we found the channel and yes we found the sand but we got through unscathed and were soon heading for Fishermans Gat and onto North Foreland and the Kent coast.

The wind farms along the way are quite surreal, set out so precisely in the middle of nowhere. Approaching North Foreland we picked up more traffic but still only light winds. Had this been the main trip we would have accepted a slow sail but this was more of a delivery with a deadline so we continued motor sailing around the Kent coast, inshore of the Goodwins, past Dover, Dungeness and heading for the Royal Sovereign light.

This is when our problems began. After 16 hours of uneventful motor sailing the engine faltered and picked up again, first thought was plastic or rope on the prop. All well for a while then again and then it stopped all together. No engine alarms but on checking the fuel filter it was full of water. By this time, getting on for midnight it was too dark to see properly to work, there was a light NW breeze, we had good vis and knew where we were so just sailed on slowly till dawn. The dawn was fantastic, a clear sky with the sun coming up over Beachy Head and Dover, sailing silently but slowly west. With the light came several hours of purging the water from the system. How so much water got into the tank and only showed after 16 hours we are still wondering but with Eddie pumping the purge valve and me draining the filter we probably took a litre of water out. Where it came from we still don’t understand, it could have been condensation in the tank to start with as the boat had been sitting with a full tank for 2 years, but if so why no problems for 16 hours? It could have entered through a leaking fuel filler as we had had some heavy rain. What ever the case it will be sorted before leaving on the main trip.

During our slow engineless sail we sailed/drifted west along a line of south cardinal buoys shown on the gps but not on the other charts, apparently protecting nothing but 20 to 30m of water and no explanation on the chart. Right in the middle we could see what appeared to be a small fleet of yachts sailing east bound in racing formation. Roger and I scanning the horizon admiring their formation then seeing another 4 just behind them, were we to witness a race at close quarters ?  No, three things then happened in close succession, we realised we were looking at wind farm piles not yachts, our slow sail combined with tide had drifted us north inside the cardinals, and the George Johannes, a construction site guard boat came on the radio asking yacht on our position to turn south and leave the Rampion wind farm construction site. We explained our engineless situation and started our slow southward exit. The guys on the GJ were good enough to offer a tow to the south western end of the site. Whether this was kindness or just to get rid of us I don’t know, I prefer to think the former. By this time the westerly had picked up a bit so the GJ safely released us to sail on towards Portsmouth and continue our purging routine.

The sail into Portsmouth from around Bognor, about 18 miles, was just a joy, 18kts of SW wind, 6.5kts over the ground, sun shining and a small chop allowing us to scythe through the water right through the the two forts protecting Portsmouth on a single tack.  Checking the fuel filter for water several more times we motored into Haslar Marina and greatfully tied up to the pontoon, turned the engine off and sat and contemplated an interesting 36 hours.

Monday morning dawned grey and gusty although the forecast wasn’t bad with mainly 15 to 20 SW. We couldn’t leave as early as we wanted as Paul Carey the rigger wanted to make a minor change to the rig. We finally left Haslar around 8:30 motoring out into a breezy Solent, checking the water separator every few minutes, this was now as routine as looking out for other craft or trimming sails. Once in the channel we unfurled both sails keeping a good reef in each. The beat up the Solent was a great sail keeping out of the way of the big cargos and ferries and generally making good progress towards the Hurst Point narrows. We knew we would be too late for the tide because of our delayed start and as we approached Lymmington our tacks got tighter as we fought the incoming tide. Because of our engine problems we didn’t want to use the engine and tried sailing through but in the end, after 17 tighter and tighter tacks, the last few only making 50m at a time we succumbed and motor sailed for half an hour to get us into Poole bay and the liveliest sail of the trip. Wind was forecast 20 to 25 but was pretty sustained at 25 28 and a biggish sea for most of the time. Not the most comfortable sail but a great test and confidence boost for the boat. She felt safe and solid and under reefed rig drove powerfully through the waves. During the late afternoon and early evening the wind veered NW and dropped a bit letting us tack SW and finally out of sight of the Needles.

Sancler has two double cabins and a double in the main saloon so great for 3 in port or a comfortable anchorage. I have the fore cabin although the smaller aft cabin looks more comfortable in a sea. Having tried to sleep in the fore cabin as we sailed towards Weymouth I can confirm that is true. Think of a violent roller coaster and double it, I tried for an hour but after actually lifting off the mattress gave up and returned to the deck. That of course isn’t a quick operation pulling on the layers again, strapping on life jacket and harness all while being thrown around a cabin. The joys of sailing.

Eventually Portland Bill came into sight and we decided to head for Weymouth to let us catch slack water in the morning. We finally edged into Weymouth under sail at 3:00 am, checked the filter and motored onto the pontoon. Tied up in 10 mins and off to sleep for 3 hours ready for a 6:00 am start.

Tuesday morning flat and sunny, purged the diesel filter, again and motor sailed out to the Bill to catch slack water at 7:30. The sail from the Bill to Beer was perfect, no reefs, NW 10 to 15, initially heading for West Bay but as the wind backed we were able to make Beer on a single tack. Roger had the helm and had everything set perfectly, as we complimented him on his steady helming he told us he hadn’t touched the wheel for half an hour proving how balance the rig was for the conditions.

The final challenge, to get into the Axe. Not the easiest place to get into and with a SW swell just about breaking on the bar and I was very pleased to let Eddie with his greater experience take her in. As usual with Eddie he made it look simple and within 10 mins we were tied up along side the Axe Yacht Club visitor pontoon. Officially at 10m we were too big for the Axe so thank you to the club for letting us stay and make our final preparations for the main event to start on the 14th.

For those who have managed to read this far I hope the length hasn’t put you off. Once we start and I’ll try to keep it shorter and to the point.

The delivery crew Eddie, Geoff and Roger

Wind farm in the Thames, rounding Portland Bill, back in Beer