Across the Minches to Stornaway

 

The forecast was marginally better for Friday, at least no mention of F7 so at 8:00 we slipped out, first into Gairloch proper then into the Minch on the way to Lewis and Stornaway. Even in Gairloch it was blowing 20 kts plus, that’s 5 to 6 but at least the sea was relatively flat. Once out of the loch and around the headland the sea started to build to be what the forecast says slight to moderate. May be slight to moderate for a big freighter but a small yacht its big, and big enough to bounce you off course making steering a handful. I have a simple 2 level scale. Standing in the cockpit you are about 2.5 m off the water. Looking out if you can see a distant horizon with all the waves of whatever size. That’s level 1. Level 2 is when the horizon is the next wave and you are looking up at the crest, when it gets like that it’s rough.
The Minches, north Minch and little Minch are the sea areas between Skye and the Hebrides and renown for rough water because the way the sea bed changes with under water peaks and troughs. Out side of the headland we set a course for Stornaway needing to make around 330 degrees over the ground but with wind and tide the best we could manage was 310 so we set of for a 26 mile beat across the Minches in a force 5 to 6 gusting 7 and a moderate sea. The course over the ground is the direction the boat actually moves in, this is different to the course steered as the wind and tide give you Lee way taking you sideways. Not the most relaxing 6 hours but actually good fun to be sailing hard rather than motoring. We had added excitement as well. Just after I went below a really big wave hit the boat and crashed over Eddie soaking him. It broke the fire extinguisher from its fastening flinging it across the cabin letting off a big spurt of extinguisher powder as it hit the other side. This time I decided it could be cleaned up once the sea calmed down, Eddie however was more house proud than me and when we swapped over and I went on the helm he was down on his knees cleaning. It’s amazing how much powder it puts out in what must have been a half second spurt, it’s still on green though so quite usable still.
We got into Stornaway around 5 pm to the normal friendly welcome from the harbour masters staff and were soon tied on the pontoon with the kettle on.
Stornaway is a working town, quite functional but interesting. We went for a stroll to find a pub but don’t imagine a quaint island hostelry with fiddle players and a blazing fire. These are serious drinking houses, all very friendly though and when I asked if they did food he just pointed at his pint of Tenants saying “that’s food enough”
Saturday was a job day, doing the washing, which Eddie insist on calling his “Dobie” and asks other people in the laundry room if they are doing their Dobie only to receive blank stairs and what is this mad man talking about. The scene is further improved by him standing in his sandals and socks. I blame Katie, you should have stopped him years ago.

We have been fishing since Devon and so far caught nothing so today Eddie bought some new hand line, I went to the fish shop and bought some fish. Eddie then walked around enjoying the delights of Stornaway including a pipe and drum band and girls dancing. I spent another afternoon waiting for a boat electrician to sort out the batteries, he didn’t turn up perhaps he’s related to the one in Waterford who turned up 4 hours late.

We did manage to drop the main and fit the infamous battens. They seem to furl ok but we were having problems with the furling as a whole eventually deciding that minimal tension on the main halliyard is the secret as this stops the top of the foil binding causing the top of the sail to get up and stick.

Dinner was mussels marinara followed by fish stew, we ate like kings even if it was from the fish shop. We had thought of going out after dinner but the attraction of the local bars was enough so off to bed to read, we know how live!

Sunday the wind was building and swinging around to the SW gale forecast. Perfect no reason to go out so it felt perfectly reasonable to catch up with the Archers omnibus. Aren’t Rob and his mother absolute bastards, let’s hope Helen gets it together to mount a good defence.

We did some work and repeated all the battery tests and have now decided to just buy a battery charger and get it sorted properly once back home.

We went out in the afternoon and it was just like Sunday’s of the 60’s nothing was open not co-op, spar, Tesco or a garage, a few families out walking but that was all. Annoying for us because we wanted some cheese but actually I think quite nice. I’m sure once you got used to it Sunday’s would become rest day as opposed to just another day as it has become at home. A couple of bars or cafes open would be good.

We are moored beside the Lifeboat station and around 4pm we saw all the RNLI men running to the boat and it going out. Couldn’t hear anything on the radio and it came back around 9pm so probably a shout rather than an exercise.

Monday Morning, there is full gale forecast for Hebrides and Orkney area so glad to be in here but hopefully out on Wednesday.

Moored in Stornaway, dinner and those sandles and socks

Under the bridge to Skye photos

Note the Devon flag, Jagermeister and black bread the pontoon at Giarloch

Wednesday 15 June Under the Bridge to Skye

When we woke we were very glad to have been on a strong mooring in a sheltered loch. Out in the sound the wind was blowing 5 to 6 straight down so no sailing and a motor up to the narrows and into Loch Alsh. We had timed our start to catch the tide into the loch but not at full flood as it can be 5kts with lots turbulence. Once into Loch Alsh we were able to turn to the West and sail down wind under the Bridge to Skye. It has a 29m clearance so our 12m didn’t cause any issues. After the bridge we were in Inner Sound heading NW so the NNE wind gave a good sail, it was a steady 20 kts with 30kts gusts and with a single reef in the Genoa and a double in the main we were flying along. We then had to head north straight up the loch and the wind was again on the nose but this time with tide with us we decided to tack up the loch. It took us a total of 14 tacks and the wind never went below 20 kts and often 27 + so an exhilarating sail. The sea was quite rough for a small boat and we had numerous big bangs with everything below going fying. The washing up stuff smashed into the fridge disgorging the whole bottle of disinfectant over the floor. Cleaning it up, bending down being bumped around combined with the smell of Detox was the first time I felt sick so I quickly finished and went back on the helm in the fresh air. Later on When I went below again I noticed my cabin and the galley area was awash in about 4 inches of water. First thought was the log or depth transducer must have ruptured in some way as they are under my bunk but then I noticed it was coming from the heads (toilet/shower). I then realised it was coming through the sink drain because we were healed over so much. This was easily cured by shutting the sea cocks. We should have done this before we started but as there hadn’t been any problem before. On our way back from Essex we had some pretty big seas and were heeled over a lot so assumed the sinks were all high enough not to cause back flow when heeled. That shows how far we were heeling today and taught us to make sure they are closed in future when ever making a passage. I then had to bail out my cabin and galley area chucking it down the bilge to pump out. Not a great job when feeling a bit rough but water in a boat really concentrates the mind. Eddie meanwhile stood stoically on the helm letting the spray blow over him.
This area of sea is also marked on the charts as a submarine exercise area and you are to keep extra look out for surface and submerged subs, we saw nothing, a bit like our whale and dolphin watching, perhaps they had all broken down again?

We had not a specific destination we just wanted to get as far north as possible depending on conditions. Gairloch looked a good option but with very little information on it, anyway it had a small pontoon and basic services as well as two good anchorages further from the town. When we got there we had to raft up with two other boats also getting out of the weather. We were beside a Lithuanian boat which had a skipper, two fathers doing sail training and their sons. We got to know them and drank Jagermeister with them, apparently it is a national Lithuanian drink having now been hijacked by the west for Jager bombs, a drink I am happy to say I still haven’t had. The real Jagermeister is actually very nice. We also had sausage and home made black bread, made on the boat and was perhaps the best bread I have ever tasted. The Lithuanians, Rimtautas the captain and Ernestas, Tadas, and sons Adas and Ignas were on a trip from Lithuania via the Baltic to Holland round the south of UK calling in on France, up through the Irish Sea round Scotland back to Holland and then Lithuania all in 74 days, making our little sail look slow and lazy.
Political bit!!! They were also amazed that people in the UK want to leave the EU. They have all lived through the Russian era and now see the Russian incursions in Ukraine as dangerous and appreciate how important a combined strong Europe is. The skipper was a really deep thinker and funny man, he was translating Conrads novel, Tales of the sea into Lithuanian, he said “when under Russia he used to dream of sailing around Scotland and because of a strong Europe he can now and wants to be able to in the future” Yes Brussels wastes money, time and words but it can be changed, but only from within. Vote REMAIN as will all on the good ship Sancler ( by proxy so Moira you know what to do)
We spent the day in Giarloch as the forecast for the Minch, the area between Skye and Stornaway was bad but better for Friday. This gave us a chance to try and sort the batteries out. We were still having problems and now they didn’t seem to be taking charge from the shore power charger. Eddie went about the testing very methodically and we think we proved the engine charges them fine but shore power doesn’t. We then checked the charger and found the fuse had blown. We replaced the fuse but then as we switched it on there was a small flash and fizz and nothing. The fuse is ok so it must be the unit but checking that was beyond us. Anyway we can charge off the engine and shore power is ok for the fridge so no big problem. At this stage we both gave up and went for a beer with the plan of getting a boat electrician to look at it in Stornaway.
Giarloch is a beautiful little loch with a small but workmanlike busy harbour. There are several whale watching boats there and it seems to be a centre for nature watching, there were certainly a fair few visitors around.

 

 

Tobermory to Loch Na Dal on the way up to Skye

Tobermory to Loch Na Dal on the way up to Skye.

We left Tobermory early and were rounding Ardnamurchan Point by 8:30. For those who listening to the midnight shipping forecast ( sad people) this name will be familiar. Ardnamurchan Point to Cape Wrath. In front of us now were the three islands of Muck, Eigg and Rum with Skye in the distance. As we rounded the point and set off north easterly the north wind let us sail for a few hours right into the Sound of Sleat but then as we entered the narrower part it went around to the east a bit and dead on the nose leaving us the option of loads of tacks or motor. We tacked a couple of times but with the strength of the wind and the tide,our forward progress was slow so we motored on.

Normally we have a set destination but looking at the chart there was nothing obvious and all had disadvantages, facing the wrong way for the wind, busy ferry ports or one near the narrows leading into Loch Alsh, surrounded by whirlpools. We eventually settled for Loch NaDal which didn’t have anything in it but was well sheltered from the NE wind. We were going to anchor but found 3 big fairly new mooring buoys that looked in good condition and well maintained so we tied in to one of these. We later found out that they are put there by the fishermans association as safe anchorages in a storm and were good for 40 tons so our little 5 tons was quite safe. Being on a good strong buoy rather than at anchor meant for a much more restful night.

Loch Na Dal and Ardnamurchan point

Monday 14 June Oban to Tobermory

Leaving Oban and Tobermory

Monday dawned grey and drizzly so as soon as the chap from Owen Sails had been we were off. Owen Sails were providing the elusive battens from Kemps which we had tried to chase around Ireland.
With no wind we motored out of Oban and up the Sound of Mull. The light NE gave us hope at first we might sail but that petered out and again. With the end of the out going tide against us we motor sailed up the loch. We now have the 3kt over the ground rule. If we can’t make more then we turn to Volvo. The motor up the loch was at least calm and peaceful enabling me to cook dinner, a big stew ready for the evening.
Tobermory is a pleasant little place made famous by the children’s tv programme. There are not as many colourful houses as I imagined but a good friendly marina and a town with everything we needed. This included a pub where we were able to watch the Ireland Sweden game and also meet up with our French friend who had helped me up the mast the day before

Oban weekend 11 and 12 June

 

I have friends living near Oban so had arranged to meet with them on Saturday and spend the night with them, Eddie was invited too but was happy to stay on the boat, I think he was really looking forward to a night by himself after 4 weeks cooped up with me. Doug was picking me up at 5 pm so that gave us the morning for jobs. The first was sort out the wind vane which had started to stick so that the instruments showed a wind from the port side what ever was really happening. It’s not essential but the wind direction and tacking angle instrument is really useful setting up the semi automatic steering or Roger as we know it.
We can sail manually steering ourselves, with the Autohelm which is a powered steering system where we can set the direction and the instruments steer a perfect course, often better than we can. The final option is to get the sails balanced and let the boat steer her self. This she does really well and can be left alone with just the occasional checks. This is when we say “Rogers got the helm” after Roger Hoare who sailed with us from Essex and got her sailing so well into Beer.
Anyway back to sorting out the wind vane, this meant going up the mast again to disconnect the vane and bring it down to fix. I’m getting quite good now going up the mast and was up and down within minutes. The vane just seemed to need freeing up so a good spray of WD40 and spinning round a bit seemed to free it, anyway there didn’t seem to be anything else we could do but buy a new one. With the vane all lubricated and working well I went up the mast again to re fix it and this time remembered my camera and took some photos. Many thanks to the Frenchman from the boat alongside for tailing the winch and giving a second safety as falling 12m onto the deck wouldn’t be fun.
We had a walk around Oban which was made more interesting because it was charities day when all the volunteer groups, schools and clubs had stalls along the harbour and there was a pipe and drum band playing. We had the sweetest, freshest mussels from a stall on the quay which was doing a roaring trade with a fantastic sea food platter with everything from mussels to lobster.
Doug picked me up at 5:00 and Eddie caught the boat back, as instructed by the rather stern ferry driver, you must book and don’t be late!
Seeing Doug and Alison again after 15 or 20 years was great, We originally met when we all worked in the Bahamas in the early eighties. Last time we stayed with them was probably 1989, they now live in an idilic cottage in a glen with fantastic views every way you look.
Apart from meeting up with old friends the highlight of the weekend was going to see a Golden Eagle chick ringed. They have ornithologist friends who are part of the ringing programme and they needed to ring the chick in an erie on the high hill close to their house. It was a pretty long and steep climb up through the bracken to the top of the crag where the Eagles nested. The ornithologists claimed down and brought the chick back up to ring and take measurements of talons and wings and weigh. It was like a scrawny feathery chicken with a massive beak, it weighed 3.8kg and was probably a female. The talons are spectacular with a grip of more than 4.5inches even on this the chick. They estimate the age at 7 weeks. After all the measurements and photos it was put back in the nest. Apparently the parents quite accept this if they see it although they could have been miles away hunting. The walk down back through the bracken left me itching convinced I was covered in ticks even though I wore water proof trousers and tightly done up coat, but so far all ok but still itchy.
Back on board Eddie and I moved off the marina pontoon over to a sailing club swinging mooring ready for the sail maker in the morning.

View from the top, pipers in Oban and Doug and Alison’s house and the baby eagle

Leaving Adfern

Up to Adfern for the engine service

 

We were up at 7 to catch the tide up to Ardfern, only 10 miles away. We were able to sail most of the way but given the strength of the tides and swirling currents we needed to motor as well to maintain steerage. We were in the marina by 10:00 and hoped the service could be brought forward but they were still waiting for one of the filters so it would have to be Friday. It makes you realise how used to instant availability we have become with something ordered in the morning being delivered by the afternoon.
Still this gave us a day to explore. Eddie went walking around the lake, painted, helped the local sailing club launch their boats and generally get to know everyone. I decided to go on a “short walk” over the hill to the marina on the other side of the peninsular. The walk was a lot longer than I anticipated and when I finally arrived I asked if there was a shorter way back. I was given directions, at the White House turn right then at the red barn go through the barn and follow the track. I didn’t even find the White House and asking directions found I had passed it half a mile up the road and hill.  Being on a relatively busy road I thought I would try hitch hiking, something I haven done in 40 years. The first car which was a small truck gave me a lift, not only in the right direction but all the way to the marina. The driver was a farmer and fencer so we discussed the dire straits of British farming, anyway thanks to him I was back early and no blisters.

The service was carried out very efficiently by one of the yard mechanics Joe, who was most careful and tidy and helpful so thanks very much Joe, a small, slight little woman but who knew her stuff, she had worked on trawlers, lived in a cabin without electricity and preferred buying tools to shoes, so no one say marine mechanics isn’t a woman’s job.

We left the yard at around 14:00 to catch the tide up to Oban. We left in grey sky’s and little wind. As we got to the end of the loch the wind filled a little and we were able to sail. The tide was strong so we were making reasonable speed around 8 kts over the ground. Very quickly as we entered the Sound of Lung the fog came down giving us 250 m vis so back to radar. At the top end of the sound there are islands and rocks and strong currents so doing this relying on radar for other vessels and GPS to identify islands, rocks and where we were was all quite tense. Still we made our way through and as we got to the easier bit the fog lifted and we entered the Kerrera sound and Oban.

We had been told that Oban Marina on Kerrera was was a good place to stay, a busy marina and a good seafood restaurant. Well when we arrived it was semi desolate, no bar nor restaurant and few boats. We since learned that it was in receivership or something but what a pity it could or has been so good and should be again. This is especially relevant as there are no marina services available in Oban.

cant get photos to load will add later

Across the loch to Kintire June 8th

A fishing boat we passed on the way, the still anchorage and the sunset

Having stopped singing about Bangor Eddie now had a new land to sing about, Mull of Kintire. We left port Ellen in thick fog with only 200m visibility. Fortunately we have the GPS and radar so although feeling a little vulnerable, especially to the ferry, we had all we needed to make our way out of the harbour and up the sound of Jura. The radar works well picking out the boats without AIS although when one finally gets within the 200m vis it’s still a surprise. The fog lasted for about 3 hours with one of us down below in the instruments and the other on deck steering and looking out. There was no wind so it was motoring which at least made it easier and ensured the radar didn’t drain the batteries too much.

When the fog lifts as and the sun comes out its like everything is made simple again and life is easy. The sea was absolutely glassy with loads of birds and several dolphins, but never close enough to photograph. That night rather than keep on for Crinan we went into a small bay and anchored up. There were a couple of other boats there but no one close. There was a small village on the shore so there were sounds of civilisation but these were distant and one being the faint sound of someone playing the pipes. It was a real peaceful, perfect evening and a fantastic sunset.

This was our first night at anchor and fortunately very calm, we still had to wake to check we were not moving though and here is where the GPS on the iPad was really useful as I could check any changes in position without getting out of bed. Even so both Eddie and I were up and checking manually just in case technology was telling lies.

Islay and first foot in the Scottish isles

 

Port Ellen is a pretty little fishing village and main ferry port for the islands made even more attractive in the sun and with children swimming!! Off the town beach. Eddie got talking to a local fisherman asking what lures or feathers he used explaining we had been fishing since Devon and had yet to catch anything. He obviously took pity on us as when he came in he gave us 3 fish, two quite small but enough for a meal each and one big one which will be good for a couple of meals. I’m glad I got a new fridge as I was able to freeze the big piece for later. We asked what it was but he was off so didn’t really hear but it was greeny brown, vert fine scales and soft flesh.

Islay is famous for its malt whisky with Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg distilleries all within an easy walk of Port Ellen. I walked to the first two but did a tour at the Laphroaig. I was half expecting a disappointing Guinness type tour all product advertising, impersonal and little real information. I couldn’t have been more wrong and would advise anyone to go on the Laphroaig tour, I can’t comment on the others say but this one was really good, informative, with a real guide, David, and very good value. £6 per person you get a real good tour and explanation of how the whisky is made, taste and smell the process and tasters or samples at the end. I’m not a whisky drinker and at first I just didn’t like it but then I was told to add just a few drops of water. I had always assumed people added water to dilute the taste but what it does is release the oils and aroma and really does make a difference making it smoother, deeper and more mellow. That said its still a taste to acquire for me but I’m willing to practice a wee bit more.

We also managed to contact the boat yard to organise the engine service and will be in Ardfern for Thursday night. Port Ellen has been a very relaxing and interesting stop, the marina was good, cheap and friendly as usual and good walks if not arduous. Eddie got some painting done so you will now doubt see the results in the autumn round Britain collection. We also got to experience the true Scottish weather. Although we arrived in brilliant sunshine, it rained hard overnight with thunder although I didn’t hear it, the morning was drizzle and dank but by 14:00 the sun was out again for a beautiful afternoon and evening. As David from the distillery said, “ over there is Ireland, if you can see it it’s going to rain, if you can’t see it it is raining.